Episodes

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Matt Fultz, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. SHOW NOTES Get Training Plans From Matt - https://otgstrength.com/ *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - How to be comfortable on small box climbs as a bigger climbe...

Austin Hoyt joins us every month for Good Temps, but after yet another season of levelling up, we had to bring him on the show to spotlight him as a guest. In this episode, Austin breaks down some of his recent sends, including Creature From The Black Lagoon V16, and tells us about his daunting V18 project. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - How Austin's approach to climbing has evolved with his progress - How to set easy and complex boulders...

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - The world’s best easy and moderate boulders Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Ryan Sewell and Mike Bockino are two of the best routesetters in the world. Together they have almost 50 years of routesetting experience for countless USA Climbing events and World Cups. Today, they join Josh and Carlo to discuss the level of international events and the current direction of competition routesetting. They also debate Josh and Carlo's controversial opinions on the WC scoring system from Good Temps #16. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended...

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora from Tension, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - How you can attend Board Lords - Was there a 3rd climb prepared for Bord Lords 10? - Mich...

James Pearson climbs only the best lines. With a background in sketchy UK trad routes, a natural ability to send hard boulders, and an eye for aesthetics, it’s no wonder he’s managed to build a ticklist of some of the world’s most coveted ascents. Today, he joins Josh to try to convince us to take up trad climbing and break down his long career as a professional climber. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - James’s experience with Exodia V18 - T...

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - Why Carlo sands everyday - The benefits of training comp moves for outdoor climbers Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Si Moore has been coaching climbing since before it was a real job. Today, he coaches some of the world’s best climbers, and is the founder of Vertical Ascents, a company built on the foundation of movement science. Today, he and Josh sit down to discuss the philosophy that informs his coaching, and some of the most important lessons he teaches his clients. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - How to send your project - The benefits of training ...

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Adam Shahar, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* The secret to climbing on slopers Adam’s training routine Every board’s hardest climb Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagra...

Chris Deuto climbs everything. He’s bouldered V14, he’s sent hard 5.14s, he’s the youngest person to climb the Yosemite triple crown, and, most impressively, last year he climbed Cerro Torre’s southeast ridge. In this episode he breaks down the factors that make Cerro Torre such a difficult ascent, how he approaches the substantial danger in his climbing, and his career in climbing journalism. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - How do pitches g...

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Will Anglin, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - Should you use dog paw medicine? - Predictions for the second half of the year SHOW NOTES: Annie Sanders flashes the slab boulder at the Innsbruck World Cup finals - https:...

You probably already know Hazel Findlay for climbing some of the world’s hardest, boldest trad routes. Today, she and Josh sit down to discuss her career as a pro climber, sports psychology, and unlocking the ability to dig deep and try as hard as you can. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - Hazel’s approach to danger in climbing - How Hazel balances hard projecting with being a parent SHOW NOTES: Trying hard is a skill. Here's how to train it...

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Brian Squire, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* The hardest move ever on the TB2 Is a Houdini Match allowed on a no matching boulder? Spray or Mirror for the TB2? Favorite ...

Matt Samet is the editor of the American Climbing Journal, and the oldest person to climb V10 on the TB2 (probably?). In this episode, Matt and Josh discuss the history of climbing, how its ethics developed into their current form, the state of climbing media, and lessons from a very long career in climbing. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - The most common climbing accidents, and how to prevent them - The best piece in the American Climbing ...

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. *Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):* - What makes Sorato Anraku so strong? - Is Dohyun Lee the world’s best board climber? - Will we see more climbers livestream their sends? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Ins...

You probably know Lincoln Knowles from instagram. Last year he started posting a series called, “Free soloing a harder route everyday until I fall.” Thankfully, he did not deliver on that, but the series did propel him to viral stardom and built him a career as a free soloist. Since then he’s made the first free solo ascent of Squawstruck, the longest sport climb in America, he’s soloed as hard as 5.12b/c, and he’s taken some of the world’s best climbers with him. Today, he joins Josh to talk ...

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato from Tension Climbing, Ben Burkhalter, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): What happened to The Red Board? Why are spray walls disappearing? The rules of board climbing SHOW NOTES: “How S...

This episode originally aired as a Patreon exclusive on December 6, 2025. After a battle with conditions, injuries, and a heartbreaking dab, Noah Wheeler just sent Burden Of Dreams V17/9A. This week we revisit his first trip to Finland with Hamish McArthur, and Tension Climbing's Michael Rosato, where they checked out Burden, and the infamous Sisu Project. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Ben Burkhalter sent nearly all his projects this season, and this week he tells us how he did it — and how you can too. In this episode we discuss the problem with high end grades, the importance of sending as many boulders as you can, and the strongest climber ever. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Dissecting board grades The hardest board climbs ever SHOW NOTES: Chronic by Ben Burkhalter and Tension Climbing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WENaQBs4YWM Join Patreon: ...

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Developing landings and trails What happened to Dreamtime Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Adam Ondra is the world’s best climber. In 2017 he made the first ascent of the world’s first 9c / 5.15d, in 2025 he climbed Soudain Seul V17, and in the past few months he’s flashed 4 V15s. This week he joins us to discuss his recent bouldering spree, his future plans, and what it takes to push climbing’s limits. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Why Adam likes boldness and adventure in climbing Adam’s tips for falling the right way Will Adam compete in the 2028 Olympic...

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato from Tension Climbing, Max Zolotukhin from Sickos Social Club, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Discontinuing the TB1 How to convince a gym owner to buy a board SHOW NOTES: Sickos Socia...

16 year old Beckett Hsin just climbed bouldering’s hardest grade. In this week’s episode, he and Josh discuss the path that took him here, the boulders that inspire him, and the power of psych. Beckett also tells us about his ambition to branch out from bouldering and explore everything that climbing has to offer. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Beckett’s experience with Lyme Disease Tips for shorter climbers Beckett’s strength metrics Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on ...

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Is it ever okay to red-tag a boulder? The politics and ethics of bolting a route Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE