Episodes

After 2 insane years, Sean Bailey is back on the pod. In this episode we break down Sean's hardest ascent to date, Duality of Man (5.15d) and the philosophy behind Next Gen, the new gym helmed by Sean and Nonaka Miho. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Is V17 or 5.15d harder? Is Duality Of Man chipped? Will Sean ever compete again? Why has no one repeated any of the proposed 15d’s? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Sam Prior and Joshua Horsley. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): The best and worst MoonBoard sets and holds How is Ben Moon still so strong at nearly 60 years old? What makes a benchmark a benchmark? Sam’s favorite Careless Talk episode The t...

One year later, Dr. Tyler Nelson is back! Tyler is the owner and founder of Camp4 Human Performance and an expert on all things training. In this episode we discuss everything shoulders, including best exercises, rehab, what to avoid, and more. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Are your hangs limited by finger strength or shoulder strength? Do pressing exercises really “even out” climbers? When to consider surgery Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit o...

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Deep dive on climbing shoes and their individual benefits The history and future of rubber technology for shoes Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE

Daniel Yagmin Jr. is the founder of Decoy Climbing holds and a legend in the Northeast climbing scene. He joins us this week to talk about the process of hold shaping, how his background in fine arts informs his work, his love of board climbing, and where he thinks the industry is headed. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Dan’s unconventional hold shaping tool kit The look of the Decoy Board The pros and cons of every training board Dan’s favorite holds — outdoors and in...

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Noah’s biggest lesson from his injury What are the defining characteristics of the British board style? How to address elitism in the climbing community and betw...

Connor Herson is back after an insane 3 years. Last week he proposed the world’s first 5.15 trad climb, “Drifter’s Escape,” a beautiful single pitch in Squamish that revolves around one of the best moves you could ask for on gear. He also talks about balancing climbing professionally with completing his masters degree, lessons he’s learned from climbing with boulderers, and his philosophy of improving by climbing as much volume as he can without sacrificing difficulty. Patreon Bonus Content (j...

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): What’s the best way to approach solo night climbing? More crazy skincare techniques from Will Is Font or Yosemite more technical? SHOW NOTES: Duality of Man (5.15d): https://www.instagram.com/...

Adam Shahar is back on the pod after the best year any climber could ask for. He’s been crushing hard boulders in Bishop, and Yosemite, and just climbed his first V17, Return of the Sleepwalker. He also talks about his recent banger V13 FA in the Valley, and his single-move Northeast megaproject. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Adam’s favorite crags in the Northeast Other projects Adam’s eyeing What motivates you as a climber? Why are there so many strong crimpers in t...

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora from Tension Climbing, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Gamification of boards pro’s and con’s? Best ways to do Leaderboards? What separates Quinn from the actual Boa...

Melina Costanza is back on Testpiece for the 3rd time! That’s because Melina is absolutely outstanding in every way: competitions, outdoors, training, and especially mindset. Melina is able to articulate all of her thoughts on these things in a way that most can’t which is why we love having her on the podcast as often as possible. She also recently competed in her first ever World Championship where she podiumed!! Even more astounding is that she did this as her first comp back after having to...

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): This Bonus content is SO GOOD. If you don’t have Patreon just sign up, get the 7-day Free Trial, and cancel immediately. You can’t miss this! I guarantee you will laugh out loud. -josh 2025 Top 3 Moments ...

Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang] is back on the pod for another fun episode! Tim has rededicated himself to the mastery of climbing after a brief stint in a normal 9-5. And boy did he come back with a bang with the amazing FA of Borrowed Time, a stunning V14 highball in Tahoe. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Mentally dealing with big injuries. How do you do it, and how did it shift your perspective on climbing?Biggest Moments for Climbing in 2025? Predictions for 2026?Would...

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension), Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Benn’s Favorite Shoes for Board Climbing Most Iconic Board Climbs (and why climbs become iconic) Everyone's Favorite and Leas...

This is a re-release of a previous episode with Sean Bailey. It was an absolute banger then, and it is today. Sean's been on a tear recently with his send of AOTB [V17], opening a new gym in Tokyo, and theres rumors of even more hard sending. Because of this, we thought it was a great time to bring this one back. We're on holiday this week, but we'll be back to normal starting next week. Happy holidays and new year everyone! Previous description, as originally aired Jan 29th, 2024. Sean Bailey...

Julian Acevedo was one of the founders of the original ‘Anti-Mega’ gym, GP81 in New York City. This gym is the definition of a “climber’s climbing gym” and is known for great walls, great setting, and an even better community. GP81 has now blazed a trail again by opening a Youth Training Center which is headed up by the Creative Director Zoe Sayetta who has been coaching youth athletes for decades. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Is there plans to continue to expand GP81...

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): The How/What/When/Why of using WET chalk. Best skin tactics? Will Anglin’s deep dive on healing splits and the secret glue he uses for everything skin related. Links to things mentioned: Ethan Salvo on ...

Annie Sanders is the first American woman to win World Cups in both Bouldering and Lead. And she’s only 18 so she’s just getting started! Hear about Annie’s breakout season and what’s in store for her future! Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Who are your favorite competitors to watch and why? How do you deal with pressure in ISO before climbing? Which round has the hardest grades, Qualis / Semis / Finals? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit o...

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. Board Climbs Mentioned: “Paws To Riches” V6 on the 2024 MB, by Davy “All Jazzed Up” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Brian Squire “I Kneed You” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Michael Rosato “One Leg ...

BLACK FRIDAY PATREON DISCOUNT! Get 25% off your first month or annual subscription until midnight (PT) on Dec 1st. Use code ‘BLACKFRIDAY’. ‘Emergency’ Episode! Elias Iagnemma sent his long standing project last week and proposed the grade of V18 / 9A+. A grade no one has ever proposed before. So we got the crew together outside our regularly scheduled program to discuss. Enjoy! This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from in...

Ollie Torr is the co-founder of Lattice. Yes, that Lattice. The biggest training company in the climbing space. Ollie has tested, coached, or worked with almost every top climber in the world, especially if they are in the UK. That means that Lattice also has the biggest and best data set around climbing metrics, and they’ve created an app to help apply what Lattice has learned over the last decade for everyone. Here is a link to get a Lifetime discount: https://plan.latticetraining.com/sign-up...

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): All things shoes! Stiff shoes or soft shoes? Should you have a special pair for sending and a different pair for training? And more… What does and does not factor into a grade? Approach? Morpholo...

Tyler Willcutt is the agent for climbers like Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma, Natalia Grossman, Tommy Caldwell, Jimmy Chin, etc… You get the idea. He is part of RXR Sports, an agency that represents the best athletes in adventure sports. In this episode we get a behind the scenes look at what the day to day is like as one of the greats in our sport. How they make money, handle pressure, and capitalize on major sends. Tyler also explains how not all athletes can cross into the mainstream. Some have ...

Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. This week Michael took a vacay, but he was replaced by the inimitable board lord Benn Wheeler! Media Mentioned: Noah Wheeler FA’s a new V15 on the TB2 Wheel Rock “Olympian vs V17 Climber” Wedge V...