#152 Ned Feehally — Training For Micro Edges, Being A ‘Good’ Climber Vs Doing A Big Number, 9A Paddle Dyno’s, and A Standardized Beastmaker Board?!
Ned Feehally is an absolute legend from the UK. He’s one of the founders of the iconic climbing company, Beastmaker, and he’s flashed up to V14. How’s that for an intro?!
Ned also wrote one of the best books on training — “Beastmaking”, and lately he’s been working on 2 new companies he started with his wife, Shauna Coxsey, “Foxy Climbing” and “Mini Beasts”.
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00:00 - Intro
03:08 - Why Ned Wrote ‘Beastmaking’
08:15 - What Made Ned Interested In Training
10:57 - What Training Becomes After Doing It For Decades
15:24 - Knowing When You’re In A Training Dead End And When To Push On
18:50 - Figuring Out You Superpower
22:20 - Genetics And Finger Strength Gains
24:58 - Being A Well-Rounded Climber
33:01 - Finding Weaknesses And Training Them
40:29 - Technical Culture Of The UK
43:20 - Home Training Boards And How To Set Them Up
49:02 - How Ned Feels About People Becoming Obsessed With The Beastmaker Middle Edge
51:05 - Beastmaker Standardized Board?!
52:57 - Foxy Climbing
56:19 - Training For Micro Edges
59:57 - Active Vs Passive Grip Training
01:04:17 - Training BEFORE Climbing
01:06:27 - Recovering From Celiac Disease
01:15:07 - Applying Comp Techniques To The Outdoors
01:24:04 - How Do You Go From Good To Great?
