Episodes
Dec. 18, 2023
#77: Zach Galla — Raw Power, The Truth Behind WC Comps, The Olympic Grind, Leaving a Legacy, and The Role of Boards
Zach Galla has been ticking off some of the hardest boulders in America while simultaneously competing at the highest level. He’s always vying for the podium in any US competition and has spent time on the World Cup circuit …
Dec. 11, 2023
#76: T&J — How Technical is Board Climbing? Committing vs Learning, Being the Conductor, Lead Domino, and One Arm Pull-Ups
Why do we call board climbing “not technical”? What does this really mean? Board climbing wasn’t the planned topic of the day, but once Tim and Josh get talking about boards they have a hard time stopping! Then Tim and Josh …
Dec. 4, 2023
#75: Jesse Grupper — Neck Tats, Paris 2024, Big Goals Little Steps, Mega-Volume, Sport Climbing Tips, Cyborgs and Optimism as a Tool
Jesse Grupper recently punched his ticket to Paris 2024 as part of the men’s USA Olympic team! This is on top of his already incredible last few years with multiple gold medal wins at the WC, an incredible flash of Livin’ As…
Nov. 27, 2023
#74: T&J — Board Wars, Board Lords, Boards Adored, Spray vs Standardized, Wood vs Plastic, Bad Apps, Flo Flows Floatin, and If There Could Only Be ONE
Which board is best?! Tim and Josh disagree... but not for the reason you might expect. Spray Wall or Standardized Wall? Wood holds or plastic? What angle? Tim and Josh love board climbing and we know you do too. They dive i…
Nov. 20, 2023
#73: Ethan Salvo — Don’t Try Hard, What Makes Squamish Special, V15 in Squamish vs CO, What’s Next In Squamish Bouldering, and Being On Team ANTIGRAV
“Motherf*cking Squamish beta, don’t try hard!” — Nalle Hukkataival Squamish is having a renaissance and Ethan Salvo is part of the team of young guns making it happen. Him and his crew are repeating the hardest boulders Squa…
Nov. 13, 2023
#72: T&J — Smoking Sharma's Joint, Outdoor Season Prep, Pro Problems, Small Holds Small Feet, Skin Smarts, Rituals and Music To Get You Psyched
How much would you pay to smoke a joint with Chris Sharma? What about have Daniel Woods be your sommelier for the night? Tim and Josh start off by talking about Sean Bailey’s viral post about his struggles making it as a Pro…
Nov. 6, 2023
#71 Roman Yalowitz — Crowbars and Glue, Breaking The BEST [& Josh’s Heart], Tahoe’s Golden Era, Development Ethics and BTS, and Learning From a World Class Crew
Roman Yalowitz is here and he’s going to break your projects and crush your dreams, just like he did to Josh 😭. Actually… Roman has been doing the complete opposite in Tahoe for the last 10 years! He is a prolific developer …
Oct. 30, 2023
#70: T&J — The Best Tasting Boulders, Bad/Good/Great Routesetting, “Cheating”, V16 Downgrades, You Are What You Climb, What To Do When Your Gym Setting Sucks and Past Guest Reflections [Andy Lamb]
The routesetting at your gym is the one of the main ingredients of getting you better at climbing. Does your gym have bad, good, or great routesetting? Do you even know the difference? What do you do if your gym’s setting su…
Oct. 23, 2023
#69: Andy Lamb — Banned by 8a.nu, Strong Siblings, ‘Accidentally’ Climbing V16s, Boards vs Outdoors, The Best Project on the West Coast, and Why Being a Pro Won’t Help
Andy Lamb has climbed multiple V16’s, flashed multiple V13’s, and placed as high as 3rd in Bouldering Nationals. But you’ve probably never heard of him because he’s not a professional climber, his Instagram is rarely updated…
Oct. 16, 2023
#68: T&J — Soft Climbs Hard Tries, Flashing Spectre, Moonboard Pros, Old Crew vs Young Crew, 1st Try Tactics, Flashing Ethics and Past Guest Reflections [Katie Lamb]
First go best go! Tim and Josh talk about flashing as a specific form of climbing. What it shows about the grade of a climb, what it shows about the climber, how to get better at flashing, and also the ethics behind a legiti…
Oct. 9, 2023
#67: Katie Lamb — V16 FFA, V16 FSA(?), Projects > Quick Ticks, Making Your Attempts Count, Visualization, Good Boulders Only, Pro-Level Tactics, and What Actually Makes Your Fingers Stronger
History has been made — Katie Lamb is officially the first woman in the world to climb V16, Box Therapy! Katie is an absolute master of the mental game for high level climbing. She treated us with a detailed breakdown of exa…
Oct. 2, 2023
#66: T&J — “My Wife Says Your Setting Sucks”, Contradictory Training Advice / Hype, Don’t Major In The Minors, Morpho Climbs, Sessioning with “The Strong Crew”, Yosemite Testpiece’s, Doing a V8 vs Climbing V8, and Past Guest Reflections [Mi
Tim and Josh chat about Yosemite bouldering, gym climbing, bad setting, and the hard truth that just because you’ve climbed V8, doesn’t mean you’re a V8 climber. Then Tim and Josh answer some of the burning questions from li…
Sept. 25, 2023
#65: Mike Heinstein — $200M in Advice, What’s Next in Climbing Gyms, Lessons from Europe, The Best Model for Climbers, Chains vs Communities, The Value of Routesetting, Opening Your Own Gym, Learning from Snowboarding Culture and Climbing f
When Mike Heinstein speaks about the climbing world, we listen. That’s because Mike is an extremely successful entrepreneur with more experience in business than perhaps anyone in climbing 🤯. Mike has always been a life long…
Sept. 18, 2023
#64: Intention — When There’s No Time or Psyche, Doing THE Thing, Low Hanging Fruit, Plan A/B/C…F, Lack of Time vs Energy, Low Psyche Workouts, and Past Guest Reflections [Nathaniel Coleman]
How do you fit it all in when you are busy? How do you decide what is important and what isn’t? What if you show up feeling like crap? This podcast is all about how to deal with the realities of a busy life while still progr…
Sept. 11, 2023
#63: Nathaniel Coleman — Elite Mental Game, Why He’s Not Competing, Twitch Streaming, Proper Excitement Levels, Intuition vs Logical Analysis, WC Commentary, Future Goals and [of course] Kendama
Holy sh!t folks, this one was special. Nathaniel Coleman went deep on this pod in a way he hasn’t before elsewhere. He's an Olympic Silver Medalist, a 3x National Bouldering Champion (in a row!), and he FA'd the iconic Grand…
Sept. 4, 2023
#62: You're Training Wrong — The North Star, Inspiration from Japan, The Fundamental Question, #Training, Learning How To Learn, Curling Your Way Past V4, Squatting Your Way to V14 and Past Guest Reflections [Eric Jerome]
You're Training Wrong, my dude. Maybe... In this podcast, Tim and Josh ask the question "Are we thinking about training all wrong?" This topic goes into the current state of "#Training", and figuring out how to answer The Fu…
Aug. 28, 2023
#61: Eric Jerome — Quest For the BEST, The Top 100 Boulders, The Origin of Star Ratings, 6 Attributes of Quality, Focusing on Quality, and The Story Behind the Current #1 Best Boulder in the USA
Eric Jerome has multiple V15 FA’, he is a prolific developer, and he works in the climbing industry at KAYA . But what made us want to talk to Eric on this podcast was his pursuit of the BEST boulders. Who doesn’t want to cl…
Aug. 21, 2023
#60: Conquering Cruxes — Sequencing Macro to the Micro, Infinite Beta Layers, V15 @ 15, Pro Climber Volume, Food Safety Gloves, and Past Guest Reflections [Will Anglin]
Sequencing is one of the core abilities we must develop as climbers. It starts with the macro, but if you want to really solve that crux you have to go into the micro details. But learning how to know where to look for effic…
Aug. 14, 2023
#59: Will Anglin — Tension Founder, Training With the BEST in the World, A Student/Master of The Craft, Strength Metrics vs Sending Reality, Infinite Variables, and Being Consumed by Something You Love
An absolutely EPIC podcast with Will Anglin, one of the founder’s of Tension Climbing. Other than creating the coolest climbing brand that every “climber's climber” love, Will has coached for years, smashes V14, and dove dee…
Aug. 7, 2023
#58: Boards > Gym? — Why Boards?, F*CK! Josh Got Hurt, Mallorca Dreamin’, Classroom Review, Reducing Variables, and Reflections on Tim’s Favorite Episode [Jason Kehl]
Lot’s of psyche but also some bad news on this one… You can’t miss Tim’s reflections on his “favorite episode” with Jason Kehl! Tim and Josh discuss some of the questions that were brought up in the first Testpiece Classroom…
July 31, 2023
#57: Jason Kehl — Evilution FA, Mutate Your Body, When Climbs Take Your Breath Away, Creating Experiences of ‘Awe’, Why Hueco is Special, “Real Climbing”, Becoming Obsessed, and SO Much More
This was a dream come true for Josh — hearing straight from Jason Kehl himself about the FA of Evilution! But wait, there’s more. Jason’s impact within the climbing world is second to none. You’ve either climbed on one his F…
July 24, 2023
#56: MAXIMIZE — Dealing with Constraints, Falling in Love, 2016 Moonboarding, Tim’s Big Move, Goals and How to Actually Train for Them, Bucket List Climbs, and Fitzgerald Reflections
Tim and Josh are extra psyched on climbing right now. They share what’s been going on in their training and the goals they’ve set for themselves. They also share some highlights and lessons learned from the David Fitzgerald …
July 17, 2023
#55: David Fitzgerald — Technique and Strength on Small Holds, Getting Granular, The Tahoe Scene, Training Minutiae, and Editing “A Little Life”
David Fitzgerald is “one of the most underrated climbers out there” per Jimmy Webb. If that doesn’t make you hit play immediately, keep reading because there’s more… On top of being a v15 climber (v16 soon!) with insane fing…
July 10, 2023
#54: World Cup '23 [Spoilers!] — Why This Season Was So Good, New Amazing Talent, Bouldering Results, Venue Vibes, and Why it’s like F1
The ’23 Boulder WC season is over and it was a banger! Even if comps aren’t your thing we all have a ton to learn from watching the best of the best battle it out. This season had some of the most impressive breakout talent …