Episodes

Feb. 26, 2024

#87 Matty Hong — Big Falls & Big Fish [9a 50m DWS], Photography 101, What Makes Sharma Special and Lessons From Biographie [World’s First 9a+]

Matty Hong takes us to Mallorca where he snagged the second ascent of Big Fish. A 9a deep water solo that culminates in a dyno at ~20m / 60ft! Matty was out there filming for the latest Reel Rock climbing with the legend Chr...
Feb. 19, 2024

#86 T&J — PED’s, Breaking Down A Crux, Climbing Like A 6 Year-Old Girl, Injury Prevention, and BTS On A Moonboard Session

Drugs, cruxes, moonboarding, injuries, making climbs your b*tch... This one's got it all! Tune in for tons of pro-tips that will help you climb better today, and set yourself up for the long term success that we all are striv...
Feb. 12, 2024

#85 Keenan Takahashi — Higher Harder Better, ANTI GRAV, The Best Lines In The World, Mentorship, Manifesting More, and The Mustache Turns 10

The man, the myth, the Mustache — Keenan Takahashi ! Keenan shares his unique approach to climbing. He seeks out the best lines in the world and then uses that as fuel to transform his body and mind so that he is able to clim...
Feb. 5, 2024

#84 T&J — Hard Hard, New New, Sessioning With The BEST, USAC Controversy, and Switching To Moonboard 2024

2024 is off the a bang with incredibly hard bouldering FA’s happening non-stop. Is this because USAC caused one of the strongest crews in the world to stop training for the Olympics and start crushing rock again? Hear more fr...
Jan. 29, 2024

#83 Sean Bailey — Devilution FA [~V16], Japan’s Gym Scene, The Future of Hard Sport Climbing, Spearheading USA’s Return to WC’s, Projecting in Bouldering vs Sport, and BTS of Making It As a Pro

Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now. Sean recently FA’d the low start t...
Jan. 22, 2024

#82 T&J — Negative Thoughts -> Words -> Actions, Type 2 Fun, Achieving Your Potential, Grades vs Belts, and ‘Make Climbing Dangerous Again’

Tim shares a common problem that holds people back that he sees in even some of the top athletes he coaches. They jokingly call it "Vomit Mouth". Learn about what this is and how you can make sure to avoid it in your sessions...
Jan. 15, 2024

#81 Carlo Traversi — The Dark Side V16 FA, Using Wet Chalk, Pushing Not Pulling, The Grade Debate, and What He Learned From Yosemite Testpiece’s

Carlo Traversi is back to tell us about his recent FA of The Dark Side V16 (suggested grade) in Yosemite. Josh thinks this FA will go down in the history books as THE testpiece of our generation in Yosemite bouldering. Tune i...
Jan. 8, 2024

#80: T&J — Always Be Hungry, Good Sessions Only, Stop Lying, You Suck, Fueled by Failure, and Tim Joins A Normie Gym

Happy New Year, my dude. Tim and Josh get meta about how to have the best 2024 possible by asking the question — why can’t all sessions be good ones? SHOW NOTES: Mastery by Robert Greene Atomic Habits by James Clear Support u...
Jan. 1, 2024

#79: West Coast Pimps — Jeremy Meigs and Joel Ruscher, Sharma’s Mentor, The Origin’s of Try Hard, Early Days in Hueco and Bishop, and Lessons From Decades of High Level Bouldering

Jeremy Meigs and Joel Ruscher are West Coast bouldering OG’s. They started climbing 3 decades ago and were part of the birth of modern HARD bouldering. Tune in to hear about the early days of bouldering and how it set the ton...
Dec. 25, 2023

#78: T&J — Baby Rattlesnakes, F*CK! Tim Got Injured, The Demonstration of Strength, Kids Vs Adults, and Boarding As A Minor

F*CK! Tim busted his knee. Not the best way to spend the holidays... The main topic for this episode is what Kids do better than Adults, and what Adults do better than Kids. Tim and Josh also talk about the latest ascents of ...
Dec. 18, 2023

#77: Zach Galla — Raw Power, The Truth Behind WC Comps, The Olympic Grind, Leaving a Legacy, and The Role of Boards

Zach Galla has been ticking off some of the hardest boulders in America while simultaneously competing at the highest level. He’s always vying for the podium in any US competition and has spent time on the World Cup circuit a...
Dec. 11, 2023

#76: T&J — How Technical is Board Climbing? Committing vs Learning, Being the Conductor, Lead Domino, and One Arm Pull-Ups

Why do we call board climbing “not technical”? What does this really mean? Board climbing wasn’t the planned topic of the day, but once Tim and Josh get talking about boards they have a hard time stopping! Then Tim and Josh t...
Dec. 4, 2023

#75: Jesse Grupper — Neck Tats, Paris 2024, Big Goals Little Steps, Mega-Volume, Sport Climbing Tips, Cyborgs and Optimism as a Tool

Jesse Grupper recently punched his ticket to Paris 2024 as part of the men’s USA Olympic team! This is on top of his already incredible last few years with multiple gold medal wins at the WC, an incredible flash of Livin’ Ast...
Nov. 27, 2023

#74: T&J — Board Wars, Board Lords, Boards Adored, Spray vs Standardized, Wood vs Plastic, Bad Apps, Flo Flows Floatin, and If There Could Only Be ONE

Which board is best?! Tim and Josh disagree... but not for the reason you might expect. Spray Wall or Standardized Wall? Wood holds or plastic? What angle? Tim and Josh love board climbing and we know you do too. They dive in...
Nov. 20, 2023

#73: Ethan Salvo — Don’t Try Hard, What Makes Squamish Special, V15 in Squamish vs CO, What’s Next In Squamish Bouldering, and Being On Team ANTIGRAV

“Motherf*cking Squamish beta, don’t try hard!” — Nalle Hukkataival Squamish is having a renaissance and Ethan Salvo is part of the team of young guns making it happen. Him and his crew are repeating the hardest boulders Squam...
Nov. 13, 2023

#72: T&J — Smoking Sharma's Joint, Outdoor Season Prep, Pro Problems, Small Holds Small Feet, Skin Smarts, Rituals and Music To Get You Psyched

How much would you pay to smoke a joint with Chris Sharma? What about have Daniel Woods be your sommelier for the night? Tim and Josh start off by talking about Sean Bailey’s viral post about his struggles making it as a Pro ...
Nov. 6, 2023

#71 Roman Yalowitz — Crowbars and Glue, Breaking The BEST [& Josh’s Heart], Tahoe’s Golden Era, Development Ethics and BTS, and Learning From a World Class Crew

Roman Yalowitz is here and he’s going to break your projects and crush your dreams, just like he did to Josh 😭. Actually… Roman has been doing the complete opposite in Tahoe for the last 10 years! He is a prolific developer t...
Oct. 30, 2023

#70: T&J — The Best Tasting Boulders, Bad/Good/Great Routesetting, “Cheating”, V16 Downgrades, You Are What You Climb, What To Do When Your Gym Setting Sucks and Past Guest Reflections [Andy Lamb]

The routesetting at your gym is the one of the main ingredients of getting you better at climbing. Does your gym have bad, good, or great routesetting? Do you even know the difference? What do you do if your gym’s setting suc...
Oct. 23, 2023

#69: Andy Lamb — Banned by 8a.nu, Strong Siblings, ‘Accidentally’ Climbing V16s, Boards vs Outdoors, The Best Project on the West Coast, and Why Being a Pro Won’t Help

Andy Lamb has climbed multiple V16’s, flashed multiple V13’s, and placed as high as 3rd in Bouldering Nationals. But you’ve probably never heard of him because he’s not a professional climber, his Instagram is rarely updated,...
Oct. 16, 2023

#68: T&J — Soft Climbs Hard Tries, Flashing Spectre, Moonboard Pros, Old Crew vs Young Crew, 1st Try Tactics, Flashing Ethics and Past Guest Reflections [Katie Lamb]

First go best go! Tim and Josh talk about flashing as a specific form of climbing. What it shows about the grade of a climb, what it shows about the climber, how to get better at flashing, and also the ethics behind a legitim...
Oct. 9, 2023

#67: Katie Lamb — V16 FFA, V16 FSA(?), Projects > Quick Ticks, Making Your Attempts Count, Visualization, Good Boulders Only, Pro-Level Tactics, and What Actually Makes Your Fingers Stronger

History has been made — Katie Lamb is officially the first woman in the world to climb V16, Box Therapy! Katie is an absolute master of the mental game for high level climbing. She treated us with a detailed breakdown of exac...
Oct. 2, 2023

#66: T&J — “My Wife Says Your Setting Sucks”, Contradictory Training Advice / Hype, Don’t Major In The Minors, Morpho Climbs, Sessioning with “The Strong Crew”, Yosemite Testpiece’s, Doing a V8 vs Climbing V8, and Past Guest Reflections [Mi

Tim and Josh chat about Yosemite bouldering, gym climbing, bad setting, and the hard truth that just because you’ve climbed V8, doesn’t mean you’re a V8 climber. Then Tim and Josh answer some of the burning questions from lis...
Sept. 25, 2023

#65: Mike Heinstein — $200M in Advice, What’s Next in Climbing Gyms, Lessons from Europe, The Best Model for Climbers, Chains vs Communities, The Value of Routesetting, Opening Your Own Gym, Learning from Snowboarding Culture and Climbing f

When Mike Heinstein speaks about the climbing world, we listen. That’s because Mike is an extremely successful entrepreneur with more experience in business than perhaps anyone in climbing 🤯. Mike has always been a life long ...
Sept. 18, 2023

#64: Intention — When There’s No Time or Psyche, Doing THE Thing, Low Hanging Fruit, Plan A/B/C…F, Lack of Time vs Energy, Low Psyche Workouts, and Past Guest Reflections [Nathaniel Coleman]

How do you fit it all in when you are busy? How do you decide what is important and what isn’t? What if you show up feeling like crap? This podcast is all about how to deal with the realities of a busy life while still progre...