Episodes

Are grades subjective? What exactly do grades represent, and what don’t they represent? How do climbs get their grades anyways? What is the hardest move ever done and how are hard moves related to the actual grade of the climb? Tim and Josh go deep on grades because, let’s face it, grades matter and climbing needs them.

Josh brings Coach Andy (@coachandytollefson on Instagram) back on to talk about figuring out your optimal bodyweight for climbing and how weightlifting may or may not fit into obtaining that weight. Then they go on to discuss some cutting edge technologies that could be used to help you train more and recover faster including BPC-157, Red Light Therapy, and using a “Cool Mitt”. WARNING: This pod goes into some subjects that can be sensitive for some listeners because they include discussions ar...

Tim and his S&C Coach, Andy, discuss the pursuit of mastery in climbing. What that means and what that looks like day to day. You can find Andy on Instagram @coachandytollefson.

Tim’s Strength and Conditioning Coach, Andy Tollefson, joins Tim and Josh. Andy is a climber and coach based out of SLC who is a certified Strength and Condition Specialist and graduated with a BS in Exercise Science. They talked about everything from injury prevention in climbing, what Tim / Josh got wrong in the “Pumping Iron” episode, and some of the cutting edge supplements that Andy thinks may become a mainstay for elite climbers. This episode is packed with tips that you can instantly app...

Tim and Josh discuss weightlifting and climbing. What is weightlifting vs calisthenics vs prehab? Is it necessary? Who might benefit? Who might not? Josh’s recommendation: Hangboarding + ‘Perfect’ Pull-ups + Pistols or Jumping is all 95% of people need. Frequency and quality over quantity. Do these often, and do them right. Sets and reps aren’t as important as intention and quality. Tim’s recommendation: Muscle-Ups + Toes-to-Bar + Hangboarding. Heavy weightlifting can teach you how to dial up ...

Tim and Josh talk about how they use supplements before, during, and after climbing to improve performance and recovery.

Tim and Josh get into the minutiae of footwork and shoe choice.

Tim and Josh reflect on what stood out as the biggest themes in the 2022 climbing year and then they make predictions for what they think will be the biggest themes in 2023.

Tim did it! He sent his longtime project — a link up of 5 highball testpieces in Bishop. All in 1 day. Footprints (V9), Ambrosia (V11), Too Big To Flail (V10), This Side of Paradise (V10), and Evilution Direct (V11). Epic. In this pod we go behind the scenes and learn about the reality of what it took to put this together. Tim doesn’t hold anything back and talks about what it was like to risk his life for this linkup. Thanks to Black Diamond for supporting Tim on this goal. Keep an eye out fo...

Tim and Josh tackle a few listener questions with the main focus being on "What is ‘Comp Style’?"

Bishop is one of Tim and Josh's favorite places on Earth. Tim was there while recording the pod so they decided to go deep on what makes Bishop one of the best places to climb in the world.

Tim shares his experience at Lead Nationals. Spoiler alert -- he placed well! Then Tim and Josh talk about what Adventure means in climbing and why it’s so important. This leads them into The Meta of climbing and how to excel in it, or anything, over the long term.

Tim and Josh are joined by Maxim Zolotukhin, a legendary climber and setter that's been at it for over two decades. They discuss aesthetics, setting, competitions in this wide ranging conversation about all things climbing.

Nationals is coming up on November 9th. This is an important comp for Tim that will likely set the tone for his following year. Tim and Josh dive into the training Tim is doing leading up to it and how he's handling the pressure. Mentioned in the podcast: The Art of Learning by Joshua Waitzkin

Josh and Tim use a recent article from Climbing Magazine to talk about modern climbing gyms. Josh goes into a few rants about how great climbing gyms have become and argues against getting stuck in nostalgia. Tim keeps it positive and adds insight as a competitive climber. Link to the article "Opinion: Modern Gyms are Failing Outdoor Climbers: https://www.climbing.com/places/opinion-modern-gyms-fail-outdoor-climbers/

Josh and Tim go deep on the Moonboard! PS — The Jerry Moffat book mentioned in the pod is “Revelations”. Go read it!

Josh and Tim start off by reflecting on the previous pod with Ethan. Tim also talks a bit about the Red and his recent experience at Rocktoberfest. Then they get to the main event. A great listener question on how to balance your time climbing between the outdoors, the indoors, and boards.

Ethan Pringle hopped on the pod with Tim and Josh! Ethan’s been at the cutting edge of climbing for decades. He shares what climbing was like when he started and how it has shaped his style and psyche. Don't miss this one. Check our Instagram, @testpiececlimbing, for pictures of Josh's feature on a JCCA poster, and Ethan on La Hostia.

Josh's pro-tip revolves around the idea of what is an appropriate amount of volume for climbers which leads Tim and Josh into a deeper discussion than expected. Then they transition into a listener question regarding best practices for skin care.

Tim and Josh start off by talking about their limited experience with trad climbing. Then they dive into Tim's success at his latest comp, a NACS sport comp in Gilbert, AZ ,where he placed second. Can Tim keep up this hot streak going into Nationals?

Tim and Josh start off with some rants about climbing etiquette and grades. Then they tackle a great listener question.

Tim and Josh go deep on board climbing and the different ways it fits into their climbing routines.

Josh and Tim start off by reminiscing about setting and what's actually going on behind the scenes. Then they dive into a topic Dave MacLeod raised in a recent YouTube video "Can you quantify climbing technique?". PS -- What do you think was the error Dave made when he was climbing at the 3 minute mark?

Tim and Josh start off by accidentally going down the rabbit hole of supplementation and their ‘stacks’ to perform and recover well. Then Tim talks about his latest competition, Jackalope, and how it went compared to his previous 3 bouldering wins. The pod finishes with a super fun discussion centered on the new Mellow climbing video “Alphane” where Shawn Raboutou does a new V17/9A. Grades and training, or lack thereof, is the focus.