Episodes
68
Oct. 16, 2023
#68: T&J — Soft Climbs Hard Tries, Flashing Spectre, Moonboard Pros, Old Crew vs Young Crew, 1st Try Tactics, Flashing Ethics and Past Guest Reflections [Katie Lamb]
First go best go! Tim and Josh talk about flashing as a specific form of climbing. What it shows about the grade of a climb, what it shows about the climber, how to get better at flashing, and also the ethics behind a legitimate flash. Listen in as Tim completely changes Josh’s mind on flashing and then find out Josh’s best tip for flashing hard that he got from past guest, Carlo Traversi. SHOW NOTES: Martin Keller sending V16 @ 45 Shawn and Brooke Raboutou on the Moonboard Shawn Raboutou Fl...
67
Oct. 9, 2023
#67: Katie Lamb — V16 FFA, V16 FSA(?), Projects > Quick Ticks, Making Your Attempts Count, Visualization, Good Boulders Only, Pro-Level Tactics, and What Actually Makes Your Fingers Stronger
History has been made — Katie Lamb is officially the first woman in the world to climb V16, Box Therapy! Katie is an absolute master of the mental game for high level climbing. She treated us with a detailed breakdown of exactly what she does. How to approach projecting, how to make each try count, and the importance of persistence. The podcasts starts out with Katie sharing with us the vision of climbing that she loves. What has inspired her since she was young, and how she has chosen to purs...
66
Oct. 2, 2023
#66: T&J — “My Wife Says Your Setting Sucks”, Contradictory Training Advice / Hype, Don’t Major In The Minors, Morpho Climbs, Sessioning with “The Strong Crew”, Yosemite Testpiece’s, Doing a V8 vs Climbing V8, and Past Guest Reflections [Mi
Tim and Josh chat about Yosemite bouldering, gym climbing, bad setting, and the hard truth that just because you’ve climbed V8, doesn’t mean you’re a V8 climber. Then Tim and Josh answer some of the burning questions from listeners: When and how-to session with the local strong crew. How to deal with all the training advice on social media that is sometimes contradictory. How to handle with “morpho” climbs, and what to do if you are on the shorter or taller end of the spectrum. SHOW NOTES: ...
65
Sept. 25, 2023
#65: Mike Heinstein — $200M in Advice, What’s Next in Climbing Gyms, Lessons from Europe, The Best Model for Climbers, Chains vs Communities, The Value of Routesetting, Opening Your Own Gym, Learning from Snowboarding Culture and Climbing f
When Mike Heinstein speaks about the climbing world, we listen. That’s because Mike is an extremely successful entrepreneur with more experience in business than perhaps anyone in climbing 🤯. Mike has always been a life long climber and now that he’s done with his previous business, Art.com, he has set his sights on the world of climbing by opening up the innovative Mosaic Boulders in Berkeley, CA. But the best thing about Mike is that he is genuinely here to help. He freely shares all of his ...
64
Sept. 18, 2023
#64: Intention — When There’s No Time or Psyche, Doing THE Thing, Low Hanging Fruit, Plan A/B/C…F, Lack of Time vs Energy, Low Psyche Workouts, and Past Guest Reflections [Nathaniel Coleman]
How do you fit it all in when you are busy? How do you decide what is important and what isn’t? What if you show up feeling like crap? This podcast is all about how to deal with the realities of a busy life while still progressing in your climbing. Tim and Josh have different approaches because they have different lives. Tim is a pro-climber who has to travel often and struggles to have a set schedule. Josh works a lot and has a family which means his schedule is always short on free time. Bu...
63
Sept. 11, 2023
#63: Nathaniel Coleman — Elite Mental Game, Why He’s Not Competing, Twitch Streaming, Proper Excitement Levels, Intuition vs Logical Analysis, WC Commentary, Future Goals and [of course] Kendama
Holy sh!t folks, this one was special. Nathaniel Coleman went deep on this pod in a way he hasn’t before elsewhere. He's an Olympic Silver Medalist, a 3x National Bouldering Champion (in a row!), and he FA'd the iconic Grand Illusion, a V16. Just one of these things would cement him as one of the top climbers in our sport. In the podcast Nathaniel shares what is actually going through his mind when he’s competing on the biggest stages, and the approach he uses when things don’t go as planned. ...
62
Sept. 4, 2023
#62: You're Training Wrong — The North Star, Inspiration from Japan, The Fundamental Question, #Training, Learning How To Learn, Curling Your Way Past V4, Squatting Your Way to V14 and Past Guest Reflections [Eric Jerome]
You're Training Wrong, my dude. Maybe... In this podcast, Tim and Josh ask the question "Are we thinking about training all wrong?" This topic goes into the current state of "#Training", and figuring out how to answer The Fundamental Question: "How do we get better at climbing?". Spoiler -- It's not a simple question. As Will Anglin says: "Climbing is hard." Support us on Patreon: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE
61
Aug. 28, 2023
#61: Eric Jerome — Quest For the BEST, The Top 100 Boulders, The Origin of Star Ratings, 6 Attributes of Quality, Focusing on Quality, and The Story Behind the Current #1 Best Boulder in the USA
Eric Jerome has multiple V15 FA’, he is a prolific developer, and he works in the climbing industry at KAYA. But what made us want to talk to Eric on this podcast was his pursuit of the BEST boulders. Who doesn’t want to climb the best boulders?! First Eric had to answer the question “What makes one boulder better than another?” Join us on this journey as we dive deep into the origin of the “Star” system, and how to apply it. Then go to Eric’s website: Top100 to see the best boulders, and ...
60
Aug. 21, 2023
#60: Conquering Cruxes — Sequencing Macro to the Micro, Infinite Beta Layers, V15 @ 15, Pro Climber Volume, Food Safety Gloves, and Past Guest Reflections [Will Anglin]
Sequencing is one of the core abilities we must develop as climbers. It starts with the macro, but if you want to really solve that crux you have to go into the micro details. But learning how to know where to look for efficiencies in the micro is hard. Tim and Josh try to demystify this process and show how to figure out where to eek out tiny bits of help in order to unlock that seemingly impossible crux move. Oh ya, and there’s lots of normal banter and general psyche that all of the episode...
59
Aug. 14, 2023
#59: Will Anglin — Tension Founder, Training With the BEST in the World, A Student/Master of The Craft, Strength Metrics vs Sending Reality, Infinite Variables, and Being Consumed by Something You Love
An absolutely EPIC podcast with Will Anglin, one of the founder’s of Tension Climbing. Other than creating the coolest climbing brand that every “climber's climber” love, Will has coached for years, smashes V14, and dove deeper into training than most. Tune in to: Hear amazing stories from the legendary training center / “The Shop” at the Tension HQ. This is where the strongest in America get stronger, and has been visited by anyone that’s anyone while traveling through CO. Find out what Will...
58
Aug. 7, 2023
#58: Boards > Gym? — Why Boards?, F*CK! Josh Got Hurt, Mallorca Dreamin’, Classroom Review, Reducing Variables, and Reflections on Tim’s Favorite Episode [Jason Kehl]
Lot’s of psyche but also some bad news on this one… You can’t miss Tim’s reflections on his “favorite episode” with Jason Kehl! Tim and Josh discuss some of the questions that were brought up in the first Testpiece Classroom. (Join them next month by signing up on Patreon!) The podcast closes with a discussion about board climbing and why so many climbers gravitate towards them instead normal gym climbs. It’s a surprising part of the indoor scene and there’s lessons to be learned from the phe...
57
July 31, 2023
#57: Jason Kehl — Evilution FA, Mutate Your Body, When Climbs Take Your Breath Away, Creating Experiences of ‘Awe’, Why Hueco is Special, “Real Climbing”, Becoming Obsessed, and SO Much More
This was a dream come true for Josh — hearing straight from Jason Kehl himself about the FA of Evilution! But wait, there’s more. Jason’s impact within the climbing world is second to none. You’ve either climbed on one his FA’s, or climbed on a gym wall he’s designed, or grabbed a grip he shaped. Yes, he’s that prolific. Tune in and hear more from the absolute LEGEND, Jason Kehl! Find more from Jason here: Instagram Real Climbing [YouTube] Hueco Guidebook Hold Shaping Gym Design HYPE Reel Su...
56
July 24, 2023
#56: MAXIMIZE — Dealing with Constraints, Falling in Love, 2016 Moonboarding, Tim’s Big Move, Goals and How to Actually Train for Them, Bucket List Climbs, and Fitzgerald Reflections
Tim and Josh are extra psyched on climbing right now. They share what’s been going on in their training and the goals they’ve set for themselves. They also share some highlights and lessons learned from the David Fitzgerald interview last week. The topic of the day is about how to maximize your training while dealing with the reality of what facilities you have available. How do you train for a 60m tufa route on a moonboard? Tim and Josh don’t quite agree… but their approaches both have merit a...
55
July 17, 2023
#55: David Fitzgerald — Technique and Strength on Small Holds, Getting Granular, The Tahoe Scene, Training Minutiae, and Editing “A Little Life”
David Fitzgerald is “one of the most underrated climbers out there” per Jimmy Webb. If that doesn’t make you hit play immediately, keep reading because there’s more… On top of being a v15 climber (v16 soon!) with insane finger strength, he is also an extremely talented editor/videographer. You probably have seen his newest film with Keenan Takahashi, “A Little Life”, and if you haven’t yet… Why not?! In this podcast, David breaks down his training techniques, how his fingers got to be so stron...
54
July 10, 2023
#54: World Cup '23 [Spoilers!] — Why This Season Was So Good, New Amazing Talent, Bouldering Results, Venue Vibes, and Why it’s like F1
The ’23 Boulder WC season is over and it was a banger! Even if comps aren’t your thing we all have a ton to learn from watching the best of the best battle it out. This season had some of the most impressive breakout talent — hear Tim and Josh talk about the 16 year old phenom, Sorato Anraku. And per usual, the pod starts with a review of the most recent guest — Jon Cardwell. There was a lot packed into that episode so Tim and Josh made sure to pull out some of the highlights and share their ta...
53
July 3, 2023
#53: Jon Cardwell — 5.15 Sport Climbing, Busting Plateaus and Structured Training, Dirtbagging in Europe, Advice for Young Pro’s, Anaerobic vs. Aerobic, and The Best Climbing Areas in the World
Jon Cardwell is one of the top sport climbers in the world with multiple 5.15’s sends under his belt. Oh ya, and the 3rd ascent of a legendary V15 you might have heard of, “The Game”. And during this podcast you’ll see why. Jon is introspective, open minded, and relentlessly puts in the work. Join us while he shares how he has figured out how to send hard, and what he has learned from the all star crew he has spent the last 15+ years traveling and climbing with. You also don’t want to miss his...
52
June 26, 2023
#52: No Coach? No Problem — How to Self Analyze, Learn How to Answer the Question “Why?”, Using Video for Success, What your Friends Know (or DON’T)
Most of the time we don’t have a coach sitting behind us giving feedback. So what do you when you are by yourself and stuck? How do you do learn to coach yourself when no one is around? Tim and Josh share how to use video, questions, and friends, to answer the questions “Why?” [did I fall]. Tim shows how this is one of the most important skills to develop in order to get better, forever. They use real examples of routes and boulders they struggled on to show how they were able to progress with...
51
June 19, 2023
#51: Jamie Emerson — The ‘Sheriff’, Defining Boulders, What Elite Climbers have in Common, Subjectivity in Grading, Technique vs Smoothness, Sending After 100 Days, Training your Creativity, and Developing What’s Next
You care about climbing. I care about climbing. And so does Jamie Emerson. Because Jamie cares so much he is willing to dive into the minutiae to help us define our sport. The How and the Why behind how Jamie does this is fascinating and will hit home to all of us who love climbing so much. Jimmy Webb jokingly called him the “Sheriff” and somehow that nickname stuck. But that one word title doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface of Jamie’s mark on the climbing world. Over the years Jamie has...
50
June 12, 2023
#50: The Best Climbing Gym in the World? — Japanese Setting, ‘Black’ Tape, B-Pump, and Reflections on the ‘Villain’
Is B-Pumo Ogikubo the best climbing gym is the world? Japan has created some of the strongest climbers in the world, especially in the competition scene, and Tim wanted to know how they did it. So Tim made the pilgrimage to Japan to see what all the chatter was about. He goes into the setting, the holds, the style, and the yakitori. PS -- Here's the tripod Tim mentions in his Pro-Tip: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WHLXN6N?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_N00JV2ETQ1EQWCQ68T1R
49
June 5, 2023
#49: Tristan Chen — Being the ‘Villain’, Grades in Climbing, Climbing 5.15 in Rumney, Beating Cancer, What Pro’s are ACTUALLY Like (Over/Underrated), and ‘Hot Takes’ Galore
You know him, you hate him, Tristan Chen — the ‘Villain’ of climbing! We’re half-joking, Tristan is only the ‘Villain’ because it makes the climbing world more fun and he has opinions that he’s not afraid to share. And make no mistake, these opinions are not just to cause problems — they are well thought through and interesting. The truth is, most high level climbers are already having these conversations about grades and abilities behind closed doors, but Tristan is willing to shine light on w...
48
May 30, 2023
#48: Do or DIE — How to Perform Under Pressure in Competitions, Run-Outs, Highballs, Flashing, or ANYTIME the Stakes are High.
Sometimes climbing can be intense. Maybe it’s in competition, maybe it’s being way off the deck and in serious danger, or maybe you just know it’s the last try you have because of skin, conditions, or the end of a trip coming. Tim and Josh share how to handle these situations, and even better, how to prepare yourself for these moments through training. Don’t just hope that you will rise to the moment, use their practical tips and tricks to make sure that you are ready when these times come.
47
May 22, 2023
#47: Carlo Traversi — Becoming Great, The Hardest Moves and Grades in the World, How Having Fun Can Beat Training, Embracing Your Own Style, Mastering Different Disciplines, The Magic of Yosemite, and What Makes Carlo’s Gym ‘The Boulder Fie
Carlo Traversi (@carlodenali) is a professional climber that has mastered every discipline in climbing. 5.14+ trad, 5.15 sport, V16 boulders, USA Nation Team for over a DECADE! Carlo has done it all. On top of this, he founded one of the top gyms in the nation — The Boulder Field. Tune in and learn how Carlo achieved all of this and how you can too. Don’t miss this one. Tim and Josh think it’s one of the best yet!
46
May 15, 2023
#46 -- F*CK! I'm Injured
Tim and Josh dig into the topic of injuries. How to avoid them, how to work around them, how to train around them, and the mindset you need to get through them and come back stronger. They both have had their fair share and learned a lot from them. They are often make or break moments in your career, so tune in to hear from our mistakes and the our new best practices. Pro-Tip: Don’t get injured.
45
May 8, 2023
#45 -- Jared Roth (pusher)
Jared Roth joined Tim and Josh for an epic pod! There was soooo much ground to cover because Jared has done it all in the climbing world. Be sure not to miss his stories about the early days in Bishop and his FA of the iconic Rastaman Vibration (stand start of Lucid Dreaming). But Jared is more than just an OG crusher with some of the best FA’s in America — he also now owns the legendary climbing hold company Pusher. Jared gives us the real behind scenes on making holds, shaping holds, and all...