Episodes

#136 Tim, My Dude — Bouldering Has Leveled Up, The Next Gen Is Better, 15d Is Harder Than V17, and The Best Highball In The World
Jan. 20, 2025

#136 Tim, My Dude — Bouldering Has Leveled Up, The Next Gen Is Better, 15d Is Harder Than V17, and The Best Highball In The World

Tim Kang (my dude) is back on Testpiece to discuss the incredible sending spree the youth have gone on these past few months. V17 is just the norm now, and V15's are just for fun and flash attempts. Tim and Josh also discuss…
#135 BONUS [Zach Galla] — 9A Surprises, The Project He’s Currently Locked In On, Simulator Training, and Who’s Going To Be Next On The Process
Jan. 17, 2025

#135 BONUS [Zach Galla] — 9A Surprises, The Project He’s Currently Locked In On, Simulator Training, and Who’s Going To Be Next On The Process

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #134 was finished. Zach Galla shares a bit more about some 9A’s / V17’s he’s tried, the project he’s currently most psyched on it, how he used simulators to train …
#134 Zach Galla — The Process [V16] SA, Transitioning From Comps To The Hardest Highballs Around The World, Sosa V16 FA, and New Core Climbing Companies
Jan. 13, 2025

#134 Zach Galla — The Process [V16] SA, Transitioning From Comps To The Hardest Highballs Around The World, Sosa V16 FA, and New Core Climbing Companies

Zach Galla is back after an insanely amazing year. Catch Zach's first Testpiece Episode, #77, here . Since we last chatted he’s been traveling the world with the goal of climbing the best hard boulders in the world. And boy …
#133 Island Boys — The Boys Go To Mallorca, Coaches Coaching Each Other, Using Fear To Your Advantage, and “Pessimists Sound Smart; Optimists Get Rich”
Jan. 6, 2025

#133 Island Boys — The Boys Go To Mallorca, Coaches Coaching Each Other, Using Fear To Your Advantage, and “Pessimists Sound Smart; Optimists Get Rich”

A couple of Island Boys just trying to make it to the top! We’ve got Ross Fulkerson , Marco Giacomangeli , and Bryce Belshin with your normal host, Josh Horsley . These boys recently got back from a trip to Mallorca that inv…
#132 BONUS [Nathaniel Coleman] — V17 Grading Thoughts, Reflections On Naming, and What He Remembers Most From Projecting
Jan. 3, 2025

#132 BONUS [Nathaniel Coleman] — V17 Grading Thoughts, Reflections On Naming, and What He Remembers Most From Projecting

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #131 was finished. Nathaniel Coleman shares a bit more about his thoughts on V17 grades, training while he projected “No One Mourns The Wicked” , and what the name…
#131 Nathaniel Coleman — V17 FA “No One Mourns The Wicked” [Defying Gravity Sit], The Newest And Best V17 In The World, and Breaking The Rules to Go from Good to Great
Jan. 1, 2025

#131 Nathaniel Coleman — V17 FA “No One Mourns The Wicked” [Defying Gravity Sit], The Newest And Best V17 In The World, and Breaking The Rules to Go from Good to Great

Special podcast!! Nathaniel Coleman just did a V17 FA, “No One Mourns The Wicked” ! This is the first ascent of the highly sought after low start to the iconic V15 testpiece, Defying Gravity. Nathaniel reached out to Testpie…
#130 Good To Great — What The Best Of The Best Focus On, Execution, Resilience, Intrinsic Motivation, Stretching Your Limits, and Trying HARD
Dec. 23, 2024

#130 Good To Great — What The Best Of The Best Focus On, Execution, Resilience, Intrinsic Motivation, Stretching Your Limits, and Trying HARD

This episode is a roundup of 5 climbs from Testpiece guests, some of the BEST climbers in the world, sharing what it takes to go from Good to Great. Josh also shares what’s in his personal note titled “What I’ve Learned From…
#129 Austin Geiman — Defying Gravity V15, 11 Years and 100+ Sessions, The History The Sit And The Next Generation, “Best Boulder Ever Best Experience Ever”, and The Power Of Perseverance
Dec. 16, 2024

#129 Austin Geiman — Defying Gravity V15, 11 Years and 100+ Sessions, The History The Sit And The Next Generation, “Best Boulder Ever Best Experience Ever”, and The Power Of Perseverance

Austin Geiman recently made waves when he sent the iconic testpiece, Defying Gravity, V15 , after 11 years and 100+ sessions. Austin started trying this boulder while it was still a project and he was there when Daniel Woods…
#128 Anne-Worley Moelter — CEO of Movement, Running The Largest Network of Gyms In The US, Climbing’s Unique Community, The Evolution Of Climbing Gyms and Where They're Headed
Dec. 9, 2024

#128 Anne-Worley Moelter — CEO of Movement, Running The Largest Network of Gyms In The US, Climbing’s Unique Community, The Evolution Of Climbing Gyms and Where They're Headed

Anne-Worley Moelter is one of the most important people in climbing today because she is the CEO of Movement Climbing , the largest network of climbing gyms in the US with a portfolio of 30 gyms and another 3 coming soon. Th…
#127 Tim, My Dude — V17 Is The New V16, $100 Bet That ‘Shaolin’…, Professional To Weekend Warrior, Embracing Weird Beta, and Josh Reflects On Mallorca
Dec. 2, 2024

#127 Tim, My Dude — V17 Is The New V16, $100 Bet That ‘Shaolin’…, Professional To Weekend Warrior, Embracing Weird Beta, and Josh Reflects On Mallorca

Timothy Kang, aka “Tim, My Dude” is back on the pod to talk about the latest climbing news, an update in his life going from a pro-climber to a weekend warrior, and hear about Josh’s recent trip to Mallorca. If you are new t…
#126 Natalia Grossman — 4x WC Season Winner [in a row!], Mindset As An Underdog vs Topdog, Climbing Your Best While Injured, and Knowing She’s ‘Ready’ For a Comp
Nov. 25, 2024

#126 Natalia Grossman — 4x WC Season Winner [in a row!], Mindset As An Underdog vs Topdog, Climbing Your Best While Injured, and Knowing She’s ‘Ready’ For a Comp

Natalia Grossman is one of the top female competitors of all time. She has won an astounding 11 World Cups and 4 World Cup seasons in a row! She also competed in the 2024 Paris Olympics for Team USA. Even though Natalia won …
#125 Melina Costanza — Double Double Gold Gold Pod Pod (Follow-Up Episode), ‘Pressure Is A Privilege’, What Execution Really Feels Like, V13 2nd Go, and The Power of Journaling
Nov. 18, 2024

#125 Melina Costanza — Double Double Gold Gold Pod Pod (Follow-Up Episode), ‘Pressure Is A Privilege’, What Execution Really Feels Like, V13 2nd Go, and The Power of Journaling

This is a follow-up episode to the last Melina Costanza podcast, #119 . That episode was one of the fan favorites, josh favorites, and even favorites of other professional climbers. Go listen to that one first, because it wa…
#124 Ross Fulkerson — Efficient Movement Over Everything, Performing Well In Different Disciplines, Practical Breathing Tips, and Testing New Climbing Shoes
Nov. 11, 2024

#124 Ross Fulkerson — Efficient Movement Over Everything, Performing Well In Different Disciplines, Practical Breathing Tips, and Testing New Climbing Shoes

This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock ! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that’s why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they recorded this podcast. Ross is back on…
#123 Adam Shahar — The Best Training For Climbing, 1-Arm Pogo’s, IFSC Athlete of the Week, Ego Snacks, and Letting Go of Negative Thoughts
Nov. 4, 2024

#123 Adam Shahar — The Best Training For Climbing, 1-Arm Pogo’s, IFSC Athlete of the Week, Ego Snacks, and Letting Go of Negative Thoughts

Adam Shahar is the name that keeps coming up when I ask who is an up and coming star. At 18 he had a breakout year where he won bouldering nationals, climbed V15 in a few sessions while he was on the road doing WC’s, and the…
#122 Hamish McArthur — His Surprising Path To Olympic Success, The Right Kind of Motivation, BTS at Paris 2024, Advice To Young Hamish, and Handling Danger and Death
Oct. 28, 2024

#122 Hamish McArthur — His Surprising Path To Olympic Success, The Right Kind of Motivation, BTS at Paris 2024, Advice To Young Hamish, and Handling Danger and Death

If you watched the Paris Olympics then you remember Hamish McArthur’s stand out performance to secure an incredible 5th place finish. Hamish had already stood atop World Cup podiums and won Youth Worlds, but his Olympic show…
#121 Matt Fultz — BIG MOVES small crimps, Long Term Projecting, Video Analysis, Hardest Board Climbs, Throwing Away His Scale, and How He Coaches on OTG
Oct. 21, 2024

#121 Matt Fultz — BIG MOVES small crimps, Long Term Projecting, Video Analysis, Hardest Board Climbs, Throwing Away His Scale, and How He Coaches on OTG

You’ve heard of Matt Fultz , but you may not realize just how amazing Matt is. He’s climbed eight V16’s. 8. Eight! By the way, two of them are rarely repeated and recognized as some of the hardest in the world (Hypnotized Mi…
#120 Alvaro Rangel — Coaching Team USA at the Olympics, Not Saying ‘Strong’, The Most Important Skill, Making Finals vs Semi’s, Case Studies, and The Future of Comp Climbing
Oct. 14, 2024

#120 Alvaro Rangel — Coaching Team USA at the Olympics, Not Saying ‘Strong’, The Most Important Skill, Making Finals vs Semi’s, Case Studies, and The Future of Comp Climbing

Alvaro Rangel , Al, is back on the podcast after 2+ years! Al was one of the first guests and one of the best. The last podcast we did was incredible, but somehow Al managed to top it with today’s episode. He is the founder …
#119 Melina Costanza — Elite Mental Training and Performance, Look Good Feel Good Play Good, Getting Hooked on The Outdoors, and The Nuances of Eating As a Top Athlete
Oct. 7, 2024

#119 Melina Costanza — Elite Mental Training and Performance, Look Good Feel Good Play Good, Getting Hooked on The Outdoors, and The Nuances of Eating As a Top Athlete

Melina Costanza is an 8x US National Champion. Sometimes as a youth, sometimes as a collegiate, sometimes in Open, sometimes in bouldering, sometimes in lead, sometimes both. Yes, last year at Open Nationals (2023) she won b…
#118 Ward Byrum — Setting Climbs For Tens of Thousands of Climbers, What Makes A Climb Good, Indoor vs Outdoor Grades, and What A ‘Testpiece’ is at Movement Gyms
Sept. 30, 2024

#118 Ward Byrum — Setting Climbs For Tens of Thousands of Climbers, What Makes A Climb Good, Indoor vs Outdoor Grades, and What A ‘Testpiece’ is at Movement Gyms

Ward Byrum is the Director of Routesetting for all Movement gyms in the East Region. Yes, that Movement. The biggest climbing gym chain in America and probably the world. That means that Ward and his team decide what the cli…
#117 Tom Randall — How Fit Climbers Get Strong and Strong Climbers Get Fit, Why Recovery On Route Is So Important, What Separates the Good from the Great, Founding Lattice Training and How It’s Evolved
Sept. 23, 2024

#117 Tom Randall — How Fit Climbers Get Strong and Strong Climbers Get Fit, Why Recovery On Route Is So Important, What Separates the Good from the Great, Founding Lattice Training and How It’s Evolved

Tom Randall is an iconic climber and founder. You might know him as one of the Wide Boyz , as one of the founders of Lattice Training , as a high level coach, or for his 5.14 Trad FA’s or even his FA of the worlds hardest cr…
#116 David Fitzgerald — A Big Zeason [V16], Lucid Dreaming [V15+], His Breakthrough On How To Approach Hard Projects, Creating Hits with Highpoint Productions, and Editing 101
Sept. 16, 2024

#116 David Fitzgerald — A Big Zeason [V16], Lucid Dreaming [V15+], His Breakthrough On How To Approach Hard Projects, Creating Hits with Highpoint Productions, and Editing 101

David Fitzgerald is back after an absolutely incredible season. Dave was previously on for Testpiece Episode #55 , a total fan favorite. Last season Dave had a list of climbs in different styles to tackle. Tierrany, a V14 en…
#115 Garrett Gregor — Olympic Head Routesetter, BTS of Elite Competitive Setting, Grades of the Olympic Climbs, and Do Setters Control the Outcome?
Sept. 9, 2024

#115 Garrett Gregor — Olympic Head Routesetter, BTS of Elite Competitive Setting, Grades of the Olympic Climbs, and Do Setters Control the Outcome?

Garrett Gregor was the head routesetter for the Paris Olympics boulders! That’s all you need to know. Just stop reading this description and start listening now. Garrett is also an accomplished competitor, placing as high as…
#114 Tyler Nelson — How Personal Morphology Affects Climbing Performance, Specificity, Unlevel Edges, Talon Grip, and Tim Gabbett’s Paradox
Sept. 2, 2024

#114 Tyler Nelson — How Personal Morphology Affects Climbing Performance, Specificity, Unlevel Edges, Talon Grip, and Tim Gabbett’s Paradox

Dr. Tyler Nelson is the founder of Camp 4 Human Performance , a company focused on bringing the principles of sport science to climbing. Tyler is focused on being a cutting edge resource for training and rehabilitation of cl…
#113 Kevin Brown — Literally Everything Your Ever Wanted To Know About Chalk, Founding Friction Labs, Skin Farming, and How To Make Sure You Are Getting The Best Friction On Holds
Aug. 26, 2024

#113 Kevin Brown — Literally Everything Your Ever Wanted To Know About Chalk, Founding Friction Labs, Skin Farming, and How To Make Sure You Are Getting The Best Friction On Holds

This is the episode to learn everything about one of, if not the, most important parts of our climbing kit — chalk! The real topic here is how to maximize friction between your hands and the holds, which is crucial for sendi…