Episodes

#157 Josh Lowell — World's Best Climbing Films, Reel Rock 19, What Made Sharma Different, Climbing Is ‘Badass’, and How To Make Something Great
May 5, 2025

#157 Josh Lowell — World's Best Climbing Films, Reel Rock 19, What Made Sharma Different, Climbing Is ‘Badass’, and How To Make Something Great

Josh Lowell is THE guy behind the camera and computer who has made all of your favorite climbing videos over the past 25+ years. He is one of the founders of Big UP Productions, Reel Rock , and was the director of The Dawn Wa...
#156 Tim, My Dude — When Olympians Go Rock Climbing, The Best Red Rocks Season Ever, Are Soft Shoes Better Than Stiff Ones, and How To Have A Successful Trip
April 28, 2025

#156 Tim, My Dude — When Olympians Go Rock Climbing, The Best Red Rocks Season Ever, Are Soft Shoes Better Than Stiff Ones, and How To Have A Successful Trip

Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang ] is back on the pod for another fun episode. Tim and Josh talk about the latest big news stories in climbing and then get into their latest climbing experience. For Tim that means sending Trieste,...
#155 [BONUS] Kevin Thibault — All About Karma, The State Of Development In Font, and 9A Slabs By Kids?!
April 25, 2025

#155 [BONUS] Kevin Thibault — All About Karma, The State Of Development In Font, and 9A Slabs By Kids?!

This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #154 was finished. Kevin Thibault and Josh go deep on the legendary ‘Karma’, the current development happening in Font, skin management, and the issues of weight vs p...
#154 Kevin Thibault — A Lifetime In Fontainebleau, Circuits / Pof / Chipping / Nazi’s, Good vs Great Climbers In Font, and Does Climbing Need Weightclasses?
April 21, 2025

#154 Kevin Thibault — A Lifetime In Fontainebleau, Circuits / Pof / Chipping / Nazi’s, Good vs Great Climbers In Font, and Does Climbing Need Weightclasses?

Kevin Thibault is a fixture in the Fontainebleau scene. He grew up there, started climbing there, and continues to climb there for almost 40 years now! It runs in the family too, his Dad climbed there and was the one who brus...
#153 Tyler Thompson — This Is The Most Fun You Can Have Climbing, Why 14a In America Is Like 9a In Europe, and How Sport Climbing Rewards Time On Rock More Than Bouldering
April 14, 2025

#153 Tyler Thompson — This Is The Most Fun You Can Have Climbing, Why 14a In America Is Like 9a In Europe, and How Sport Climbing Rewards Time On Rock More Than Bouldering

Tyler Thompson is one of the best young sport climbers in America with multiple 5.15 ascents and over 100 5.14 sends. Tyler shares his perspectives on sport climbing in America and why sport climbing hasn’t grown as quickly a...
#152 Ned Feehally — Training For Micro Edges, Being A ‘Good’ Climber Vs Doing A Big Number, 9A Paddle Dyno’s, and A Standardized Beastmaker Board?!
April 7, 2025

#152 Ned Feehally — Training For Micro Edges, Being A ‘Good’ Climber Vs Doing A Big Number, 9A Paddle Dyno’s, and A Standardized Beastmaker Board?!

Ned Feehally is an absolute legend from the UK. He’s one of the founders of the iconic climbing company, Beastmaker, and he’s flashed up to V14. How’s that for an intro?! Ned also wrote one of the best books on training — “Be...
#151 Shauna Coxsey — The One Thing You Can’t Train, Olympics Are Harder Than Parenting, and The Difference Between Motivation and Commitment
March 31, 2025

#151 Shauna Coxsey — The One Thing You Can’t Train, Olympics Are Harder Than Parenting, and The Difference Between Motivation and Commitment

Shauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she’s a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly send...
#150 [BONUS] Emil Abrahamsson — Long Term YouTube Goals, Recommendations To The Pro’s, Will Ondra Flash V15?, and The # Of V17’s In The World
March 28, 2025

#150 [BONUS] Emil Abrahamsson — Long Term YouTube Goals, Recommendations To The Pro’s, Will Ondra Flash V15?, and The # Of V17’s In The World

This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished. Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the me...
#149 Emil Abrahamsson — Avoiding Audience Capture, Winning The Arnold Classic, Why He’s A “Lunatic”, and Gaining The Right Kind Of Weight
March 24, 2025

#149 Emil Abrahamsson — Avoiding Audience Capture, Winning The Arnold Classic, Why He’s A “Lunatic”, and Gaining The Right Kind Of Weight

Emil Abrahamsson is one of the most famous climbers today because of his incredibly popular YouTube channel . Some of his videos have been viewed over 10 million times! Emil also is an incredibly strong climber with sends as ...
#148 [BONUS] Kenny Suh — MORE Shocking Industry Tell All, How Most Shoe Companies Came To Exist, and $300 Climbing Shoes?!
March 21, 2025

#148 [BONUS] Kenny Suh — MORE Shocking Industry Tell All, How Most Shoe Companies Came To Exist, and $300 Climbing Shoes?!

This is a continuation of the last episode with Kenny , #147 . Please listen to that episode first for context! Kenny and Josh hop back on to explore even more drama and links between Mad Rock and 5.10, Evolv, Butora, Red Chi...
#147 Kenny Suh — Shocking Industry Tell All (The NDA’s Have EXPIRED), Who Actually Makes Your Shoes?, CEO Of Mad Rock, “Finger Condoms”, and Shoes In 2030 Will Be Made Like This
March 17, 2025

#147 Kenny Suh — Shocking Industry Tell All (The NDA’s Have EXPIRED), Who Actually Makes Your Shoes?, CEO Of Mad Rock, “Finger Condoms”, and Shoes In 2030 Will Be Made Like This

Kenny Suh is the CEO of Mad Rock . Kenny tells us all of the behind the scenes of how climbing shoes are made, WHO actually makes them, the impossible tradeoffs in rubber, how shoes will be made in the future, and some of the...
#146 Chris Weidner — First 14c At 50, The Invention Of Kneepads, Member #112 At The 1st US Gym, and How Ice Climbing Helped Chris Send 14c
March 10, 2025

#146 Chris Weidner — First 14c At 50, The Invention Of Kneepads, Member #112 At The 1st US Gym, and How Ice Climbing Helped Chris Send 14c

Chris Weidner just sent his first 14c at the young age of 50 years old. Hidden beneath that spectacular achievement is a pyramid of climbing all over the world in many different styles, from FA’ing multi pitch 5.13 trad to su...
#145 [BONUS] Chris Schulte — Throw It All Away, Fontainebleau Recommendations, and Earning ‘Those Moments’
March 7, 2025

#145 [BONUS] Chris Schulte — Throw It All Away, Fontainebleau Recommendations, and Earning ‘Those Moments’

This is a behind the scenes discussion with Chris Schulte , right after Episode #144 was finished. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”! Don’t miss Episode #144 for context! SHOW N...
#144 Chris Schulte — Chasing Adventure And History, The Origins Of ‘Compression’ Climbing, Bouldering In The 1800’s, and Why “Leave No Trace” Doesn’t Scale
March 3, 2025

#144 Chris Schulte — Chasing Adventure And History, The Origins Of ‘Compression’ Climbing, Bouldering In The 1800’s, and Why “Leave No Trace” Doesn’t Scale

Chris Schulte has been there and FA’d that. You may know of Chris, but you probably haven’t met him because Chris likes to stay off the beaten path. Way off the beaten path! In this episode Chris drops so much knowledge and h...
#143 Simon Lorenzi — The Surprising Reason V18 Is So Difficult, Benchmark V16 And V17 Boulders, 9c Vs 9A, ‘Perfect’ Isn’t Perfect, and Why Climbing Is The Best Sport Ever
Feb. 24, 2025

#143 Simon Lorenzi — The Surprising Reason V18 Is So Difficult, Benchmark V16 And V17 Boulders, 9c Vs 9A, ‘Perfect’ Isn’t Perfect, and Why Climbing Is The Best Sport Ever

Simon Lorenzi has done more V17’s on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there’s a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt! That’s because we chatted with Simon...
#142 Tyler Nelson & Rob Hunter — Doubling Finger Strength As A 48 Year Old V14 Climber, “Squeezing The Lemon”, Focusing On Muscular Gains Over Connective Tissue, and Intention Instead Of Numbers
Feb. 17, 2025

#142 Tyler Nelson & Rob Hunter — Doubling Finger Strength As A 48 Year Old V14 Climber, “Squeezing The Lemon”, Focusing On Muscular Gains Over Connective Tissue, and Intention Instead Of Numbers

Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter ! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Hum...
#141 BONUS [Austin Hoyt] — The V18 Proj Everyone Knows About, Why Lucid Dreaming Is V15 Not V16, and The Upcoming V16 Next To Devilution
Feb. 14, 2025

#141 BONUS [Austin Hoyt] — The V18 Proj Everyone Knows About, Why Lucid Dreaming Is V15 Not V16, and The Upcoming V16 Next To Devilution

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #140 was finished. Austin Hoyt shares his thoughts on the Lucid Dreaming, The Process, Devilution, The ‘Earvo’ Project, and how they all compare to one another. Aus...
#140 Austin Hoyt — Breaking Beta On Lucid Dreaming, FA’ing NE’s First V15, “NE Is The New SE”, and Why Everyone From There Has Strong Fingers
Feb. 10, 2025

#140 Austin Hoyt — Breaking Beta On Lucid Dreaming, FA’ing NE’s First V15, “NE Is The New SE”, and Why Everyone From There Has Strong Fingers

Austin Hoyt is one of the young guns out of the North East crew that has been absolutely crushing lately. Austin recently FA’d the North East’s first V15, Big Bad Wolf , as well as sent Lucid Dreaming [V15+] using a new ‘doub...
#139 Ross Fulkerson — 70ft Whips, Filming “Between The Tides”, Expectations Of A Pro-Climber, and How To Deliver Peak Performance When Everything Is Against You
Feb. 3, 2025

#139 Ross Fulkerson — 70ft Whips, Filming “Between The Tides”, Expectations Of A Pro-Climber, and How To Deliver Peak Performance When Everything Is Against You

This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock ! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that’s why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they filmed “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulk...
#138 BONUS [Kai Whaley] — Secret Projects, His Favorite Place To Climb, Rocklands/Switzerland Ticklist, and Being a Good Climber
Jan. 31, 2025

#138 BONUS [Kai Whaley] — Secret Projects, His Favorite Place To Climb, Rocklands/Switzerland Ticklist, and Being a Good Climber

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #137 was finished. Kai Whaley shares a bit more about some of the projects left in Red Rocks, his favorite place to climb in the world, his ticklist for some upcomi...
#137 Kai Whaley — Youngest To Climb V10/12/16 And 17 Soon?!, NOT Being A Comp Kid, Live Streaming Highballs And V16s, and BOARDS
Jan. 27, 2025

#137 Kai Whaley — Youngest To Climb V10/12/16 And 17 Soon?!, NOT Being A Comp Kid, Live Streaming Highballs And V16s, and BOARDS

“What up gangstas and shorties, it’s your boy, Kai." Kai Whaley is best known for his amazing YouTube Channel where he has been vlogging his sessions on Return Of The Sleepwalker (V17) and Shaolin (V17). He is close on both o...
#136 Tim, My Dude — Bouldering Has Leveled Up, The Next Gen Is Better, 15d Is Harder Than V17, and The Best Highball In The World
Jan. 20, 2025

#136 Tim, My Dude — Bouldering Has Leveled Up, The Next Gen Is Better, 15d Is Harder Than V17, and The Best Highball In The World

Tim Kang (my dude) is back on Testpiece to discuss the incredible sending spree the youth have gone on these past few months. V17 is just the norm now, and V15's are just for fun and flash attempts. Tim and Josh also discuss ...
#135 BONUS [Zach Galla] — 9A Surprises, The Project He’s Currently Locked In On, Simulator Training, and Who’s Going To Be Next On The Process
Jan. 17, 2025

#135 BONUS [Zach Galla] — 9A Surprises, The Project He’s Currently Locked In On, Simulator Training, and Who’s Going To Be Next On The Process

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #134 was finished. Zach Galla shares a bit more about some 9A’s / V17’s he’s tried, the project he’s currently most psyched on it, how he used simulators to train f...
#134 Zach Galla — The Process [V16] SA, Transitioning From Comps To The Hardest Highballs Around The World, Sosa V16 FA, and New Core Climbing Companies
Jan. 13, 2025

#134 Zach Galla — The Process [V16] SA, Transitioning From Comps To The Hardest Highballs Around The World, Sosa V16 FA, and New Core Climbing Companies

Zach Galla is back after an insanely amazing year. Catch Zach's first Testpiece Episode, #77, here . Since we last chatted he’s been traveling the world with the goal of climbing the best hard boulders in the world. And boy d...