#168 Dan Varian — The Different Physical Archetypes Of Pros, High Knuckle Crimping, Committing To Chisel Or 3-Finger Drag, and How True Progression Happens
Dan Varian is a living legend in the bouldering scene. He's one of the founders of the iconic company Beastmaker and he's a prolific developer with who has FA'd 100's of boulders in the grade 8 (V11 and up). On top of that, Dan is one of the most thoughtful and experienced climber in the world on what it takes to climb at a high level, especially when it comes to the hands and fingers. This is an absolute masterclass and deep dive on elite level hand strength. THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ...
Dan Varian is a living legend in the bouldering scene. He's one of the founders of the iconic company Beastmaker and he's a prolific developer with who has FA'd 100's of boulders in the grade 8 (V11 and up).
On top of that, Dan is one of the most thoughtful and experienced climber in the world on what it takes to climb at a high level, especially when it comes to the hands and fingers.
This is an absolute masterclass and deep dive on elite level hand strength.
THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing.
Support us on Patreon: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sign-up with one of our coaches: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
00:00 - Intro
08:38 - The "Perfect Experience of Climbing": Bombadil 8B+/V14
24:40 - Aidan Roberts and Climber Styles
34:32 - The Values of Different Grip Types
56:00 - Support by Organic Climbing
57:16 - The Values of Different Grip Types
01:47:54 - Are you a dragger or a chiseler?
01:55:02 - The Case Against Edge Lifting
02:17:23 - How To Go From Good To Great
