#153 Tyler Thompson — This Is The Most Fun You Can Have Climbing, Why 14a In America Is Like 9a In Europe, and How Sport Climbing Rewards Time On Rock More Than Bouldering
Tyler Thompson is one of the best young sport climbers in America with multiple 5.15 ascents and over 100 5.14 sends.
Tyler shares his perspectives on sport climbing in America and why sport climbing hasn’t grown as quickly as bouldering.
And we get to hear some of his hard earned wisdom about how to become and better climber and why there are no shortcuts to time on the rock.
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00:00 - Intro
03:50 - Were You A Comp Kid?
11:00 - “Finding Climbing”
14:53 - Why Hasn’t Sport Climbing Grown As Much As Bouldering?
19:37 - The Best First Person Experience In Climbing
24:47 - The Mistake Board Lords Make While Sport Climbing
28:00 - Finding Efficiencies On Routes
31:54 - Tactics For Resting On Routes
38:31 - Climbing IQ Is The Wrong Term
42:08 - Is Technical Kneebarring Required To Be A Top Sport Climber?
49:52 - Onsighting Is The Best ‘Exam’ In Climbing
57:16 - Dealing With Intimidating Routes
01:01:06 - Sending Full Metal Brisket, 15a
01:11:49 - Sending Death Of Villains, 15a
01:19:02 - Sport Climbing Scene In America Vs Europe
01:24:41 - Is It Easier To Climb Your First V10 Or 13b?
01:29:31 - How Do You Go From Good To Great?
